The end caps on this one are 6.3mm thick and milled out in the center. This makes the outer edges much tougher and can be ground/grinded without distorting.
This brace might get welded in place... (depends on where it goes). This makes sense for a suspension corrected fork as its a torsionally stiffer structure. In the BMX+ application it makes footjams possible and probably safer on one's toes than any other fork.
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Monday, December 29, 2014
Tuesday, December 23, 2014
Sunday, December 14, 2014
Thursday, December 11, 2014
X-mas
X-mas present on its way: 24" BMX. 74.5 HA and 14" chainstay (13.75" slammed with small 2.0 tire)
Blue vein Stout 24" fork
I've been swapping parts around and decided to try the Ti frame out as a dirt jumper. I aimed for it to be a do-it-all frame but it has worked out surprisingly well as a single speed (despite the vertical dropouts). I used a pre-stretched chain and my normal gearing and its sitting tight. The longer 15.75" chainstay and lower BB height make it harder to manual on the street but I was on the back wheel through rollers at the trails with little effort. The lack of a HT gusset and the .89mm thick (thin) downtube have me a little cautious. I would have preferred to build with a 1mm or 1.2mm thick downtube but they weren't available when I built this frame. I have a new welding machine with a better pulse function that I intend to use for some Ti BMX race frames soon.
I've been swapping parts around and decided to try the Ti frame out as a dirt jumper. I aimed for it to be a do-it-all frame but it has worked out surprisingly well as a single speed (despite the vertical dropouts). I used a pre-stretched chain and my normal gearing and its sitting tight. The longer 15.75" chainstay and lower BB height make it harder to manual on the street but I was on the back wheel through rollers at the trails with little effort. The lack of a HT gusset and the .89mm thick (thin) downtube have me a little cautious. I would have preferred to build with a 1mm or 1.2mm thick downtube but they weren't available when I built this frame. I have a new welding machine with a better pulse function that I intend to use for some Ti BMX race frames soon.
Sunday, December 7, 2014
Hilltop Weekend at Bernies with special guest John Stamos
Had a good weekend on the Hilltop except for the part where Nathan's foot went the wrong way. He's the one doing threes, cans, bars, trucks and whips:
http://www.pinkbike.com/video/389378/
http://www.pinkbike.com/video/389378/
Friday, December 5, 2014
22 XL fork
A 22" fork with loafs of tire clearance for the 2.425" tires and a super strong, 24X1mm threaded, one piece machined steerer. Its heavier but much less likely to bend than the alternatives:
I stuck a steel tubing insert in Todd's new fork to prevent bending, though his old butted fork had an Aluminum insert and still bent that much. This steerer is about 3mm to start with, so it should last longer than the fork legs.
Thursday, December 4, 2014
Thursday, November 20, 2014
Gregs 24MTBX
This one is a halfsy designed around a 60mm fork, with lighter tubes and smaller tire clearances for racing.
Saturday, November 15, 2014
Wednesday, November 12, 2014
The Knuckle guides have worked well, though they do require some modification (slots) to make it easier to insert the housing. With the slots cut, it was possible to insert/remove the dropper post and mechanical brake without loosening any Allen bolts.
The biggest benefit to these is the fact that they reduce any chance of rust, in a rust prone area. They also keep the cables a bit further from the top tube, so there isn't any housing scuff or annoying cable slap noise.
They aren't the best choice for hydraulic brakes or interrupted housing lines obviously.
The biggest benefit to these is the fact that they reduce any chance of rust, in a rust prone area. They also keep the cables a bit further from the top tube, so there isn't any housing scuff or annoying cable slap noise.
They aren't the best choice for hydraulic brakes or interrupted housing lines obviously.
Saturday, November 8, 2014
Friday, November 7, 2014
Fatty
3.75" rise bars because I like my bars way up there (better on the back) and 22.2mm because I can swap them out between bikes.
I'v got my fatty set up single speed at the moment. I'll probably make a suspension fork for this thing some day. There are 10X more sand trails than bicycle only trails here in east Texas, so I can actually see riding this a lot. I am pondering filling the frame with yellow stuff insulation to make it water proof.Tuesday, November 4, 2014
Monday, November 3, 2014
Scottys 22 is coated. Gotta wait a few days for the dryer weather to finish fatty and Greg's 24MTBMX racer.
The dropouts usually need a little tweeking to fit the seat stay angles (regardless of the frame). The super low BB drop on a fat bike made the angles pretty far off so I decided to tweek the seatstsays with an additional bend.
Going to try these removable knuckle guides out on the top tube
The dropouts usually need a little tweeking to fit the seat stay angles (regardless of the frame). The super low BB drop on a fat bike made the angles pretty far off so I decided to tweek the seatstsays with an additional bend.
Going to try these removable knuckle guides out on the top tube
Tuesday, October 28, 2014
Sunday, October 26, 2014
http://www.pinkbike.com/video/384260/
the go pro shot from last April:
http://www.pinkbike.com/video/357574/
Wednesday, October 8, 2014
Monday, September 22, 2014
Thursday, September 18, 2014
Monday, September 15, 2014
Wednesday, September 10, 2014
Two machines that have made work so much easier. The Baleigh manual bender makes repeatable bends and can bend very heavy duty tubes as well.
This little mill has two important features for coping. The first is an "R8" type spindle which uses collets that easily enable the use of 3/4" hole saw arbors. The second important feature is a motor with infinitely adjustable RPMs.