I've been really sick the past week and could't get much done. Bill's frame and these bars are waiting for coat jobs
Don't use an alcoholic based cleaner on your powdercoated bike parts when its cold (mid 50s or colder). The clears and translucent colors will shatter instantly and obviously. The opaque colors, that haven't been cleared, probably do as well but are less noticeable. This is the only part that I've had bounce back to me, but I have had experience with this problem when doing multiple coats (and cleaning with denatured alcohol) during winter time.
I found a good deal on a 888 so the AM bike feels balanced again (thanks Justin). I know these old Konas are a little dated geometrically, but it has done me well for the past ~10 years...
Bill's 24" is close to finished. I wasn't able to make the exact dropouts he wanted. Depending on the hub he's using, he'll have to go without tensioners or use the welded/inner dropout integrated ones.
An hour of turning a few grinding discs into powder, only to have a thread tap break off in the hole. Don't ask me to make those BMX dropouts with the internal tensioners. They're heavier and, as I tried to just explain, tapping an inch of tiny diameter/fine threads into a work hardened plate is too risky a procedure.
Some 3"s with a 25.4mm clamp area that are now available (turns out dude needed a 22.2mm)
Ron's 5.5"s (the inserts are sitting loose in there as they still need to be knurled and pressed in after the bar is powdercoated)