Gun blue (in strategic/vulnerable places) can prevent rust worms, especially with the thinner trans powder colors. The crushing forces of a stem and a brake lever usually open up the coat as soon as they are installed.

 Some test bars (4.3"s), soon to be making some 5.9"s for this type of bike: Jacob's fixed freestyler

 This 22" BMX was supposed to have 10X110mm spacing but I forgot what I was doing and made a 10X135mm disc rear end. So I might have it for sale pretty soon 74.2* HA, 21.75 TT, 14" CS, 1.4" rise BB

 These are some fork legs that I have for trail MTB or tough commuter bikes. I have had requests for non-freestyle forks.

down the street at Hilltop

Davis got some really good shots, below is his Facebook album. I like the contrast of the grey sky on the orange lips better than a blue sky:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.709882295793508.1073741841.398502003598207&type=3

http://www.pinkbike.com/video/395120/

I think this is the winner of the high jump but there were many people from out of town and several groms that I'd never seen.

 Jason turning it down on his old Stout that he re-coated at his shop

 little Landry hitting big jumps

Billy's 24" MTB race and trails

 Knarly. This horizontal knurling seems to make more sense than the typical diamond knurling for handle bars. Four piece in the works.

Pretty sure this took more than twice the time to weld than the typical front triangle (Due to the acute angles and the added surface area) It was a challenge, and sort of fun, but I don't think I want to make another any time soon.

 The neighbor's Alliance custom bike has Hope "V-twin" road disc brakes. The rear connector bled out so I had to do a re-fill job. I don't know why this system exists, as it seems to have way more friction than a well lubed mechanical brake. The V-twin is basically a cable that comes off the lever and pulls a plunger past the reservoir, so it still has some cable friction. I'd suggest a good mechanical brake.

 Stoked on gun metal color (trans pewter) and larger chainstays.

 These "T" handles are supposedly going to get caps made for handle storage. Just a thought on what they might look like:

One with removable mounts, externally butted seat tube, and straight gauge DT. The top one has a seat clamp, internally butted ST, double butted main tubes and is LHD.

I made the handles from the same sticks that these fork legs were made with: .058"/1.25" dia 4130. They're definitely a little heavier but can be swung at full force. The heads were modified by the CTY guys. The (multi-purpose) shape seems to make digging packed dirt easier than a spade shovel and still works well as a transfer shovel.