26 MTBMX LHD

Normally, I try to avoid welding braces on the curved areas, so that the tube can flex at the bend.

Mitering the top tube against the two curves is a different procedure: First, the top tube is cut to length, then each curve is traced and cut out by hand. Then you eventually find out that the cut was much closer to fitting when it was just a rough cut/straight line with no curve at all... and you spent an hour and a half doing something that could've taken a few minutes.

22 IR

This cap required some modification and a special tool to be able to tighten after the housing goes through the center.

Brent's MTB and 22"BMX bars

I could wait and pay a waterjet place or spend about 10 minutes getting really dirty to cut each dropout. 

aNDREWS 26er

 if I had the time, I would put these seat stay gussets on every frame. The increase in stiffness is obvious switching from any other frame. This is a long frame so it needs some extra strength. The slightly longer (5") headtube distributes forces better as well.

Here is one of the smaller top tubes coupled with a 1.5" down tube. I'd normally use 1.375" top and down tubes on a race frame like this. Should be about the same weight and stiffness though.

9s

Brent's 9" bars. Still have to cut out dropouts for his fork.

24

Working on Ti while the Supertherm top tube shortage continues. I have some smaller 1.25" top tubes coming for some other projects but the normal top tubes have been more than seventy days on back order and still haven't even reached the supplier. Another option is a 1.5" Supertherm top tube.